The Gusbourne Blanc de Noirs 2020 is a traditional-method sparkling wine from Kent and Sussex, England, made entirely from red grapes pressed gently off their skins. Despite its dark-skinned parentage, the result is a pale, structured white sparkling wine with its own distinct character.

The nose leans toward red apple, redcurrant and a touch of spice, fuller and slightly riper than a Blanc de Blancs while still fresh, with a faint smoky, biscuity character sitting beneath the fruit. The palate has real weight and texture, with stone fruit and a savoury, almost fleshy character underneath the fine mousse, which itself feels gentler and less aggressive in the mouth than in a leaner-style wine.

Acidity is well balanced against that fuller texture, and the finish is long and savoury, with a gentle spiced note lingering after the fruit.

Its extra weight suits richer dishes than a typical sparkling wine — roast chicken, charcuterie or hard cheeses, food with enough presence to meet its fuller frame.

The 2020 is showing well now, with the depth to develop further if cellared for another year or two.