The House of Arras Blanc de Blancs NV is a Tasmanian sparkling wine made entirely from Chardonnay, built on citrus clarity rather than sheer richness. Fine bubbles, a pale straw colour and a long, chalky finish mark it as cool-climate fizz of real seriousness.

The nose leans towards lemon curd, white peach and green apple skin, with a nutty, bready character sitting underneath from time on lees. There is a faint whiff of sea air and crushed shell that Tasmania does so well. On the palate it is taut and linear, with grapefruit and lime driving through a fine, persistent bead. The texture is creamy without being heavy, and acidity carries the finish well past the point where most sparkling wine gives up. Dry, precise and quietly powerful.

Pour it with freshly shucked oysters, Tasmanian scallops, or a plate of jamón and good bread. It also handles salt-and-pepper squid, tempura prawns and a well-made roast chicken with more grace than you might expect from a glass of bubbles. Drinking beautifully now and worth keeping for three to five years, where the citrus will soften and the toasty, nutty side will come further forward. Serve it around 8°C in a white wine glass rather than a flute, so the aromatics have somewhere to go.