Paul Bara Brut Réserve NV is a Pinot Noir–led Champagne from the village of Bouzy, in the Montagne de Reims, and it carries the broad, red-fruited weight that growers in that part of Champagne are known for. Expect a Champagne with presence rather than delicacy, yet still finely cut.

The nose leans towards baked apple, dried strawberry and toasted brioche, with a chalky, almost savoury undertone that keeps the fruit in check. Give it a few minutes in the glass and some hazelnut and lemon curd emerge.

Across the palate the mousse is fine and persistent, carrying real breadth through the middle before the acidity draws everything into a dry, mineral finish. There is a gentle grip on the close, a reminder that this is a wine built on black grapes, and it holds its line long after the fruit has faded.

Pour it with roast chicken, a plate of jamón, salted almonds, or anything from the fryer — tempura prawns and whitebait in particular. It also stands up to richer dishes such as mushroom risotto or soft washed-rind cheese, where lighter Champagne would be lost.

Drinking well now and over the next three to five years, with a year or two in a cool, dark spot adding further depth to the toasty characters.