Deutz Brut Rosé NV is a pale salmon-pink Champagne from the Marne, built around red fruit and fine, persistent bead rather than richness. It is a dry, poised style that works as readily at the table as it does before dinner.

Wild strawberry, redcurrant and a little pink grapefruit lift from the glass, with a quiet pastry note underneath that fills in as the wine warms. There is nothing confected about the fruit here — it reads fresh and slightly tart, in the way good Pinot-driven rosé Champagne usually does.

The palate is lean in the best sense, with the mousse carrying red berry flavour across a firm line of acidity. Texture builds through the middle without ever turning broad, and the finish is dry, faintly savoury and clean, leaving a trace of citrus pith rather than sweetness.

Pour it with seared tuna, jamón, duck rillettes or a plate of charcuterie and radishes. It also handles roast quail and mushroom tarts better than most sparkling wines, and is good company for a bowl of strawberries at the end of a long lunch.

Drink now and over the next three to four years, chilled to around 8°C. A larger glass rather than a flute will show the fruit and the pastry character far more clearly.