The 'Leask' Grenache 2020 is Hither & Yon's winery-direct tier, named for the Leask family behind the label, and built with more concentration than the everyday range. Now several years from vintage, it shows a garnet colour with a hint of development at the rim, a sign of the bottle age already behind it.

Dried red cherry and raspberry sit alongside emerging notes of dried herb and forest floor, the kind of secondary character time in bottle brings, along with a faint sarsaparilla note that was likely more subdued in its youth. The palate is medium to full-bodied, with silky tannin that has had time to soften and integrate, and a savoury complexity that a younger wine of this variety rarely shows.

The finish is long, savoury and layered, more complex than a younger Grenache typically shows, with dried fruit lingering alongside the herbal notes right through to the end.

Serve it with duck, mushroom risotto or a rich vegetarian dish that can match its developed, savoury character.

It is drinking beautifully now, at a stage where its fruit and savoury development sit in balance, though it does not need to be opened immediately.