Hazel's Vineyard Zinfandel 2023 is one of the more unexpected wines in McHenry Hohnen's Margaret River range: Zinfandel is far more associated with California than the west coast of Australia, but this biodynamically farmed vineyard has grown it long enough to make a distinctive, well-judged example. The cooler 2023 season kept the wine from tipping into the jammy extremes Zinfandel can reach in hotter years, leaving the fruit vivid rather than stewed.

Brambly dark berry, black pepper and a touch of dried fig sit on the nose, with the variety's characteristic spice coming through clearly alongside a faint briary note. The palate is ripe and generous, with dark fruit and a warm, peppery spice running through the middle, backed by supple tannin.

Tannin is moderate and the finish is long and slightly warming, with the spice lingering after the fruit fades and a faint liquorice note at the very end.

It is built for hearty food: barbecued ribs, a rich tomato-based ragu, or aged cheese with a bit of funk to it.

Drink it over the next few years while the fruit is still vivid and the spice at its liveliest.