Wangolina's Lagrein 2023 grows on South Australia's Limestone Coast, a maritime climate that gives this Alto Adige variety a fresher edge than it typically finds in its Alpine homeland. It is a deeply coloured, structured red, almost inky at the core of the glass.

Dark plum, blackberry and a distinctive bitter-chocolate note lead, with dried herb and a touch of dark spice. There is a faint violet lift that softens the otherwise brooding aromatics.

The palate is full-bodied, with firm, grippy tannins and bright acidity giving real structure and a long, savoury finish. The tannin here is a defining feature, coating the palate through to the finish.

Its grip and depth suit rich, fatty dishes - braised beef cheek, game meats or a hard aged cheese. It also suits a simple venison and juniper stew, or a plate of grilled sausages with mustard and roasted root vegetables.

Give it a year or two to soften, and expect it to drink well for the next four to six years as the tannin gradually resolves.