La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 890 2011 is a Tempranillo-led red from Rioja, Spain, and it sits at the very top of the bodega's range. It receives the longest and most exacting traditional ageing of anything the house makes, and the 2011 now carries substantial bottle age as a result.

The nose is deeply savoury — dried fruit, cedar, tobacco, balsamic and a fine leathery complexity that only comes with years in bottle. The palate mirrors that layering, with soft, faded red fruit sitting under waves of spice, dried herb and old-wood character.

Tannins have resolved almost completely, texture is silky rather than firm, and the finish is long, delicate and lingering, built on savoury complexity rather than fruit power.

This is a wine for slow-cooked game, mature cheeses or a simple dish of good jamón, where nothing competes with its layered, mature character.

As the pinnacle of a house famous for extensive pre-release ageing, 890 is released only when fully mature — this 2011 is at its peak now and should be enjoyed rather than cellared further.