The Bogle Petite Sirah 2022 is a big, dark red from Clarksburg in California's Sacramento River Delta, made by this sustainably farmed, family-run producer from a variety distinct from Syrah despite the similar name — deeply coloured, thick-skinned and naturally built for weight and grip. This is Bogle's boldest red.

Blackberry, black plum and a peppery, slightly floral lift sit on the nose, with a dense, inky palate that carries real concentration through the middle. There's a touch of dark chocolate and dried herb lurking in the background, adding a savoury dimension to the fruit.

Tannins are firm and chewy, true to the variety, closing on a long, robust finish with real substance rather than delicacy.

There's little subtlety here, and that's very much the appeal — this is a red for people who like their reds with genuine presence. This wine wants rich, hearty food — barbecued brisket, a peppered steak, or a hard, aged cheese.

It's approachable now but has enough structure to hold for a further two to three years if you'd rather wait.