The Petersons Durif 2023 is a deep, full-bodied red from Mudgee in New South Wales, built on dark fruit and firm tannin rather than sweetness or heat. Durif is one of the region's sturdier reds, and this Mudgee vintage carries that weight without losing its shape.

Aromatically it leans towards blackberry, mulberry and plum skin, with a lift of black pepper, dried sage and something faintly earthy underneath. The fruit is dark and concentrated instead of jammy, and the perfume builds in the glass rather than announcing itself straight away.

Across the palate the wine is broad and dense, with satsuma plum and blackcurrant sitting over savoury, slightly gravelly tannin. Acidity keeps the middle from turning heavy, and the finish is long, dry and grippy, closing on dark chocolate and cracked pepper. This is a red with real structure, so a decant of half an hour will soften the edges.

Food is where the Petersons Durif earns its keep: slow-cooked beef cheeks, a well-charred rib eye, lamb shanks with root vegetables, or a rich mushroom and barley braise. Hard, aged cheddar works well after the meal, and so does anything cooked over coals.

Drink from now through to around 2033. The tannin will settle over the next few years and the fruit should turn more savoury and leathery with time in the cellar.