The 'Leask' Shiraz 2021 is Hither & Yon's winery-direct tier, named for the Leask family, and shows noticeably more concentration and structure than the standard McLaren Vale Shiraz. It is deep, dense purple in the glass with little sign of fade at the rim despite its years in bottle.

Blackberry, dark plum and black pepper lead the nose, with a savoury, meaty depth underneath that gives it real seriousness, and a faint dark chocolate note that emerges as the wine opens up in the glass. The palate is full-bodied and powerful, with firm, ripe tannin built to support long-term cellaring, and a density of fruit that fills the whole mouth without ever feeling heavy or clumsy.

The finish is long, warm and structured, with dark fruit and pepper spice carrying well after the last sip, and tannin still gripping at the very end.

Pair it with a substantial red meat dish — slow-roasted lamb shoulder or a rich beef casserole both suit its weight.

It is drinking well now but built with enough structure to reward several more years in the cellar.