Alkimi's Marsanne 2023 comes from the cool, elevated sites of the Yarra Valley, a region better known for pinot and chardonnay but capable of real texture in its white Rhône plantings.

The nose is honeysuckle and beeswax with a streak of lemon pith, while the palate carries Marsanne's characteristic waxy weight without tipping into heaviness. Yarra's cooler nights keep the acidity taut underneath.

It finishes long and savoury, with a faint almond-skin bitterness that keeps each glass interesting rather than simply rich.

Serve it with roast chicken, a creamy risotto, or firm white fish - the texture wants food with some substance behind it.

Drink now through the next two to three years, while the fruit is still fresh alongside the developing waxiness.