Tegernseerhof Ried Loibenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd 2021 is a single-vineyard white wine from the same Loibenberg site in Austria's Wachau, but several vintages further along than the estate's current release. That extra time in bottle has softened the wine's edges and brought forward a more settled complexity.

Where a younger Loibenberg leans on pure pepper and citrus, this 2021 shows more honeyed depth alongside the white pepper, with dried herb and a touch of toast starting to emerge, and a faint nuttiness that marks its developing bottle age. The palate has filled out too, with riper stone fruit and a rounder, more textured mid-palate than a fresher vintage would show.

Acidity is still firm enough to keep the wine lively, and the finish is long, spiced and slightly nutty.

Its added depth suits roast pork, game birds or dishes with a mushroom or truffle element, food that can meet its added layer of complexity.

It is drinking beautifully right now, at a stage where its site character and bottle development are both fully on show.