The Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand Aligoté 2023 is a bright, tightly wound white Burgundy that shows just how serious this often-overlooked variety can be. Expect citrus drive and a chalky, savoury edge rather than anything rich or tropical.

The nose opens on lemon zest, green apple skin and white flowers, with a faint saline lift underneath. There is a little orchard fruit sweetness on the aromatics, but the overall impression is crisp and mineral. On the palate the wine is lean in the best sense — taut acidity running the length of it, grapefruit pith and quince firming up through the middle, and a dry, stony finish that lingers longer than the modest weight suggests. Texture is fine rather than plush, with a slight grip on the back palate that gives the Aligoté real presence at the table.

Drink it with Sydney rock oysters, whitebait fritters, a goat's cheese salad or roast chicken with plenty of lemon. It also handles the classic Burgundian pairing of snails in garlic butter, and works well with a simple plate of prosciutto and cornichons. Drinking well now and through to around 2028, though the acid line suggests it will hold a year or two beyond that for those who like a little more development.