The Domaine d'Edouard Bourgogne Aligoté 2022 is a crisp, low-frills white from the Chablis corner of Bourgogne, built around lemon, green apple and a faint chalky bite. Aligoté is the region's other white grape, and here it shows its knack for freshness without turning austere.

The nose is bright and direct: lemon zest, bruised pear, white blossom and a whiff of crushed stone. Nothing is dressed up, which is rather the point. The palate is lean in the good sense, with tart green apple and grapefruit pith carried on a firm line of acidity. Texture comes from a light saline grip through the middle rather than any sense of weight, and the finish is dry, tangy and short enough to leave you reaching for the next mouthful. The warmth of the 2022 growing season across Bourgogne has taken the sharp edge off the fruit, giving a rounder middle than Aligoté often manages.

Oysters are the obvious call, and a good one. Beyond that, try it with grilled whiting, pork terrine, goat's cheese on toast, or a plate of prosciutto and cornichons before dinner. Drink now through to 2027, served properly cold.