The Harewood Estate Great Southern Riesling 2025 is a dry, tightly wound white from Western Australia's Great Southern, drawing fruit from across the region's sub-regions including Mount Barker, Denmark, Porongurup and Frankland River. Pale lemon in the glass, it leads with citrus and white flowers rather than any sweetness.

The aromatics are lifted and precise — lime zest, green apple skin, a little pear and a whiff of lemon blossom, with a faint spice note sitting underneath. Nothing is overworked; the fruit does the talking.

On the palate the Harewood Estate Riesling is dry and lean in the best sense, with grapefruit and lime running the length of the wine and a fine, chalky grip through the middle. Acidity is the backbone here, bright and well judged, carrying a long citrus-and-mineral finish that leaves the mouth clean and asking for another sip.

Pour it cold with fresh oysters, whiting fillets fried in butter, prawn and green mango salad, or a plate of Vietnamese rice paper rolls. It also handles chilli well, so Thai and Malaysian dishes are fair game, as is a simple goat's cheese and cucumber lunch.

Drinking beautifully now for its fruit and drive, this Great Southern Riesling has the acid structure to reward cellaring through to around 2034, gaining toast and lanolin richness as the citrus softens.