Tegernseerhof Ried Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd 2024 is a single-vineyard white wine from the Kellerberg, one of the Wachau's other great Riesling sites alongside Steinertal, though with its own distinct character. It is a powerful, structured wine even in its youth.

The nose combines ripe stone fruit and citrus with a firm, almost steely mineral edge, denser than the more saline profile typical of Steinertal fruit, with a faint smoky minerality sitting beneath it. The palate is broad and powerful — there's real grip here even at this early stage, a sign of the site's typical power — with concentration of peach and lime carried on a structured, energetic frame.

Acidity is substantial, matching the wine's concentration rather than sitting apart from it, and the finish is long, powerful and mineral.

Its density suits richer dishes — pork belly, duck or Asian dishes with a touch of sweetness to meet the wine's intensity, or simply roast pork with a fruit glaze.

Still youthful and tightly coiled, it has real potential to develop further with a few years in the cellar.