Tegernseerhof Ried Kellerberg Riesling Smaragd 2021 is from the same powerful Kellerberg site in Austria's Wachau as the current release, but with several years of development adding a new layer to its already dense character. The site's natural power has settled into something richer and more textured.

Baked stone fruit, honey and a touch of petrol now sit alongside the site's core mineral steel, with the wine showing more overt richness than a younger vintage would and a faint smoky edge remaining from that mineral core, now framed by riper, more developed fruit. The palate has filled out considerably, with concentrated fruit and a broad, textured mid-palate that carries real weight.

Acidity is still firm enough to keep it from feeling heavy, and the finish is long, powerful and layered, closing on honeyed spice.

Its richness suits roast duck, pork with fruit-based sauces or firm cheeses, particularly dishes finished with a touch of spice, where its depth has plenty to work with.

This is drinking at a genuinely mature, rewarding stage now, having fully absorbed its years in bottle.