The Weingut Wechsler Kalk Riesling 2023 is a dry Riesling from Rheinhessen in Germany, built around citrus fruit and a firm chalky spine rather than sweetness or weight. It is bright, taut and unmistakably savoury, the sort of Riesling that rewards a bit of air in the glass.

Lemon zest, green apple and white peach lead the aroma, with a smoky, mineral edge underneath and a touch of jasmine as it warms. The fruit is more juicy than perfumed, and there is no shortage of energy on the nose. Dry and medium-bodied on the palate, with lime and grapefruit carried by high, clean acidity. Texture comes from a fine, slightly powdery grip through the middle, and the finish is long, dry and faintly saline, with the fruit lingering well after the acid has done its work.

Serve it with steamed snapper and ginger, prawn dumplings, schnitzel with lemon, or a plate of oysters. It also holds up to spice better than most dry whites, so Thai salads and Sichuan cold chicken are fair game. Drinking well now and through to around 2030, with the acid structure to develop toast and honey characters over the second half of that window.