Occhipinti SP68 Rosso 2023 is a light-to-medium bodied natural red from Sicily, built on Frappato with Nero d'Avola alongside it, fermented without additions and raised in concrete rather than wood. Perfumed, tart and savoury rather than ripe and heavy, it is the wine that made Arianna Occhipinti's name and it still drinks like something poured off a farmhouse table.

Crushed rose petal and violet lift out of the glass first, then wild blackberry, sour cherry and cranberry, with dried thyme, warm stone and a faint smokiness underneath. There is a whiff of blood orange peel and cured meat that grows as the wine sits, so give it time in the glass or an hour in a decanter.

The palate is fine-boned and almost translucent, driven by brisk acidity and a salty, chalky grip instead of tannic muscle. Fruit runs tart and crunchy through the middle, the texture stays loose and drinkable, and the finish leaves the mouth watering with a cranberry snap and a savoury, herbal echo.

Serve this Sicilian red cool, around 14 degrees, in a decent-sized glass. It suits grilled lamb cutlets, anchovy-laden pasta, arancini, a plate of salumi and pecorino, or tuna seared rare with capers and tomato. The 2023 is drinking well now and should hold happily through to about 2029.