The Tornatore Etna Rosso 2022 is a pale, perfumed red from the northern slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily, built on Nerello Mascalese with a small portion of Nerello Cappuccio. Grown on volcanic soils around Castiglione di Sicilia, it trades weight for lift, tension and a distinctly savoury edge.

Aromatically, this Etna Rosso leans red: morello and wild strawberry, a dusting of white pepper, dried Mediterranean herbs and a faint smoky, stony character that comes through more strongly as the glass warms. The palate follows the nose rather than broadening it, with sour cherry and cranberry fruit running over a fine, chalky tannin line.

Structurally the 2022 is medium-bodied at most, with bright acidity doing the work that alcohol and extract do in warmer Sicilian reds. The wine spent time in large wooden barrels before bottling, which shows as polish rather than flavour, and the finish is dry, faintly salty and longer than the light colour suggests.

Serve it at about 16 degrees, and give younger bottles half an hour open. Tornatore Etna Rosso 2022 suits roast pork, grilled lamb cutlets, mushroom risotto, tomato-based pasta and hard sheep's milk cheeses. Drink now through to roughly 2030, with the middle of that window likely the sweet spot as the tannins soften and the smoky, earthy notes take over from the fruit.