Rolling Stone 2019 is McHenry Hohnen's flagship red, the top of this biodynamically farmed Margaret River estate's range and its most serious wine, built from a warm, dry 2019 vintage that concentrated fruit across the region. It represents the fullest expression of what the estate's vineyards can produce in a strong year, and the most ambitious wine in the range.

Dark cassis, black plum, cedar and a savoury, earthy depth define the nose, with layers of dried herb and graphite typical of top Margaret River reds, and a faint dark chocolate note beneath. The palate is dense and powerful, dark fruit built on a substantial, fine-grained tannic structure that carries real length.

This is a wine of real concentration and length, with firm tannin and grippy acid carrying a long, resonant finish that keeps unfolding.

It deserves food of equal weight: a slow-cooked lamb shoulder, a well-aged rib-eye, or a rich mushroom and beef pie.

Given its structure and the concentration of the 2019 vintage, this is built to cellar — expect it to develop for the better part of a decade.