Wangolina's Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 is grown on South Australia's Limestone Coast, a maritime region well suited to Cabernet's slow, even ripening. With several years of bottle age now behind it, this release shows more development than a current-vintage Cabernet, a deep garnet colour with a slightly brick-tinged rim.

Blackcurrant and dried plum sit with cedar, dried bay leaf and an emerging earthy, leathery complexity typical of maturing Cabernet. There is a dried fig note that has developed with time in bottle.

The tannins have softened and integrated, giving a palate that is smooth rather than youthfully firm, with a long, savoury finish. The wine shows a roundness that only comes with several years in bottle.

It suits roast beef, aged cheddar or a rich mushroom sauce - dishes that meet its developed, savoury character. It also suits a simple beef Wellington, or a wedge of mature gouda on its own after the meal.

This is drinking well now, at a stage many Cabernets are only just entering, and there is little reason to hold it further.