HIC! Project 5255 is Wangolina's small-batch Malbec from South Australia's Limestone Coast, a limited release that reads as more experimental than the estate's core range. Grown on the same maritime-cooled ground as the rest of the portfolio, it takes a slightly different path in the glass, deep purple with a bright, youthful rim.

Dark plum, violet and a touch of black pepper lead, with a curious, almost savoury tang that sets it apart from a straightforward Malbec. There is a faint spiced note, somewhere between clove and star anise, that keeps the nose interesting.

The palate is medium-bodied, with soft tannins and a lively acid line that keeps things interesting rather than settled - this is not a wine that sits still, and each glass seems to show something a little different. There is a playful energy to it that suits its small-batch, experimental billing.

It is worth pouring alongside something a little unexpected too - a spiced sausage, a charcuterie board with pickles, or simply on its own for the curious drinker. It also suits a plate of soft cheese with a fruit paste.