The Pooley Estate Pinot Noir 2025 is a bright, medium-bodied Tasmanian pinot noir with the clarity of fruit and firm acid line that the island does better than anywhere else in Australia. Expect red fruit and savoury spice rather than density, in a style that drinks well young without falling apart in a few years' time.

Aromatically it leans towards morello cherry, cranberry and a little rhubarb, with dried thyme and a twist of black pepper sitting behind the fruit. The palate follows the same line — tart red berries, a hint of blood orange, then something earthier and more savoury through the middle. There is a faint florality on the top note that lifts the whole thing. Tannins are fine and slightly grippy at the edges, giving the wine shape without weight, and the natural acidity of cool-climate Tasmania keeps everything taut. Texture is silky in the mouth rather than plush, and the finish is long, dry and gently spiced, with the fruit lingering rather than the alcohol.

Serve at around 16°C — a short spell in the fridge helps if the room is warm. Good with duck breast, roast quail, mushroom risotto or a plate of jamón and hard cheese. Drinking well from now, and should hold and develop pleasingly through to about 2032.