The Sinapius Close Planted Pinot Noir 2024 is a fine-boned, savoury Tasmanian pinot noir that leans on perfume and detail rather than depth of colour or weight. From the cool northern reaches of Tasmania, it sits at the lighter, more transparent end of Australian pinot, with the acidity you would expect from the island.

Aromatically it opens on red cherry, cranberry and a twist of orange peel, with dried thyme, rosehip and a faint char underneath. The palate follows the nose closely: sour cherry and pomegranate up front, then a more earthy, forest-floor character through the middle. There is a whole-bunch style lift to it, all stems and pepper, that keeps the fruit from turning sweet.

Tannins are fine and slightly grippy, more like tea leaf than velvet, and they draw the wine out rather than plush it up. Acid runs the length of the palate and gives the finish real length and a clean, mineral snap. Medium-bodied at most, but it holds its shape well.

Serve it at around 15 degrees, and give it half an hour in a decanter if you are opening it young. Duck breast, mushroom risotto, roast quail or a plate of charcuterie all work. Drinking well now and should reward cellaring through to about 2032.