The Patina Pinot Noir 2019 is a cool-climate red from Orange, New South Wales, where high-altitude vineyards keep the fruit bright and the frame slender. Expect a medium-bodied wine built on perfume and detail rather than depth of colour or weight.

Red cherry, cranberry and a little wild strawberry lead the aroma, with dried thyme, rose petal and a savoury, undergrowth character sitting underneath. Air brings out something closer to blood orange and crushed leaf, which gives the Orange Pinot Noir its lift.

The palate is fine-boned and quietly persistent. Tannins are powdery and well judged, acidity runs straight through the middle without sharpening, and the finish trails off on sour cherry and a faint earthiness. Texture is silky rather than plush, the sort of Pinot Noir that gains presence as it warms in the glass.

Roast duck with cherries, mushroom risotto, glazed quail or a plate of charcuterie all work well. It also handles grilled salmon and, served with a slight chill, holds up to a warm afternoon better than most reds.

Drinking well now and through to around 2029, with the acid line and tannin structure to stay composed over that stretch. Decant briefly if opening a bottle in the next year or so.