Victoria's King Valley climbs into some of the state's cooler, higher vineyard country, and the 2024 King Valley Chardonnay is built around that citrus drive rather than tropical weight. White peach and green apple sit under a brighter lemon top note, with a soft creamy texture running underneath that keeps it from feeling austere.

On the palate that citrus character carries straight through, backed by racy acidity that keeps the wine feeling tighter than its texture suggests. It's medium-bodied rather than broad, with the creamy note showing more on the finish than up front.

The finish is long and slightly saline, the kind of chardonnay that keeps you coming back for another mouthful rather than one that fills you up on the first sip.

It's a natural match for roast chicken, pan-fried fish in a butter sauce, or a simple creamy pasta, dishes that can meet the wine's texture without fighting its acid line.

Drink it over the next two to three years, while the citrus fruit is still front and centre and before any of that creaminess starts to dominate.