The label's flagship white, the 2023 Fetherston Estate Chardonnay draws on cool-climate Victorian fruit to build texture and length rather than overt fruit sweetness.

White peach and lemon sit against a firmer grapefruit note, giving the nose real citrus drive alongside its stone fruit, and a faint nutty character that becomes more obvious with time in the glass. The palate has genuine texture, with that fruit carrying through a wine that feels more savoury than sweet.

Acidity is bright, the body sits in the middle, and the finish is long, with the texture lingering well after the fruit itself has faded. It's a wine built more around structure than immediate fruit impact, which suits a slower, more deliberate glass.

It matches roast or grilled seafood, chicken in a light cream sauce, or a simple risotto with a generous handful of parmesan, dishes with enough weight to meet the wine's texture.

Drink it over the next two to three years, while the balance between fruit and texture is sitting at its very best.