The Kistler Les Noisetiers Chardonnay 2024 is the entry point into this pioneering Sonoma producer's range, drawing on fruit from across Sonoma County rather than a single named vineyard. It's a broader, more accessible expression of the house style, but no less carefully made for it.

White peach, citrus and a light, hazelnut-like richness sit on the nose, with a fuller, more generous palate than the estate's single-vineyard wines. There's real fruit purity here alongside a gentle creaminess that carries through the middle, without ever feeling heavy or overworked.

Acidity keeps the wine balanced rather than heavy, running through to a clean, moderately long finish with good freshness and no hard edges.

It suits a wide range of food — roast chicken, grilled prawns, a creamy risotto, a light seafood pasta, or simply a bowl of mixed nuts on the table.

It's the kind of Chardonnay that suits a full table rather than a single glass. Drinking well now, and best enjoyed over the next two to three years while its fruit is vibrant.