The Kistler Sonoma Valley Chardonnay 2024 narrows the focus from the broader Sonoma County bottling to Sonoma Valley specifically, a step up in precision from this pioneering producer's entry-level wine. The fruit here carries more concentration and a tighter sense of place.

Yellow peach, baked apple and a touch of toasted nut sit on the nose, layered over a subtle minerality that gives the wine real backbone. The palate is fuller and more textured than the entry-tier wine, with fruit intensity carrying right through the middle and real presence on the tongue.

A fine, slightly chalky texture builds through to a long, mineral-edged finish, acidity keeping everything in balance despite the wine's evident concentration.

Try it with roast chicken with tarragon, pan-seared scallops, or a rich seafood risotto.

There's a seriousness to this wine that sets it apart from the estate's broader bottling, without losing any of its natural generosity. It's drinking well now, with the structure to hold for a further three to four years and gaining further nuance in that time.