The Thunderstone Chardonnay 2024 is a cool-climate white from Porongurup in Western Australia's Great Southern, built on citrus clarity rather than richness. Think white peach and grapefruit with a fine, chalky edge running underneath.

Aromatically it leads with lemon curd, nectarine and a little white blossom, with a flinty, struck-match lift that gives the nose some tension. There's a subtle nuttiness sitting behind the fruit that fills out as the wine warms in the glass.

The palate is lean in the best sense — grapefruit pith and green apple carried on a firm acid line, with enough creamy texture through the middle to stop it feeling austere. Porongurup's altitude shows in the way the fruit stays tight and defined, and the finish is long, dry and faintly saline, with citrus zest lingering after the wine has gone.

Good with grilled snapper, scallops with burnt butter, chicken poached with lemon and tarragon, or a wedge of young goat's cheese. It also handles a plate of oysters without overwhelming them.

Drink now through to around 2031. The 2024 has the acidity and structure to reward a few years in the cellar, where the citrus will soften towards marmalade and the texture will broaden, though it's already approachable if you prefer the fruit fresh and bright.