The Sinapius Close Planted Chardonnay 2023 is a taut, finely drawn Tasmanian Chardonnay with real presence for its weight. Cool-climate fruit gives it a citrus-driven core and a line of acidity that runs the length of the palate.

Aromatically it leads with grapefruit pith, white nectarine and lemon blossom, with a struck-match, flinty edge and something faintly saline underneath. Time in the glass draws out almond meal and a touch of green apple skin.

The palate is lean in the best sense — more tension than flesh — with white peach and preserved lemon carried on a chalky, mineral texture. Acidity is bright and persistent rather than sharp, and the finish is long, dry and a little savoury, leaving a grapefruit tang that lingers well after the wine has gone.

Pair it with Tasmanian oysters, ocean trout crudo, roast chicken with tarragon, or a plate of scallops with brown butter. It also handles soft washed-rind cheese better than most Chardonnay at this weight.

Drinking well now with a decant or an hour in the glass, and the structure to develop in the cellar through to around 2031. Serve it at about 12 degrees rather than straight from the fridge — too cold and the texture closes up.