The Sisu Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2024 is a cool-climate Tasmanian white built on tension rather than richness. Expect citrus and white stone fruit carried on a long, mineral line, with the natural acidity Tasmania is known for holding everything in shape.

Grapefruit pith, lemon blossom and nashi pear lead the aroma, with a chalky, almost saline edge underneath and a faint hint of white nectarine as the glass warms. There is nothing heavy about it — the fruit is bright and tightly wound rather than tropical.

On the palate the wine is lean through the middle, then broadens slightly across the back with a creamy texture that softens the acid without blunting it. Lemon curd and crushed oyster shell carry into a dry, persistent finish that leaves the mouth clean and asking for the next sip. This is Chardonnay with real drive, and it rewards a slightly warmer serving temperature than you might expect.

Pair it with Tasmanian oysters, pan-fried whiting, a roast chicken with lemon and tarragon, or a wedge of young goat's cheese. It also handles richer fare — scallops in brown butter, or crab linguine — better than its frame suggests.

Drink now through to around 2031, with the middle of that window likely the sweet spot as the texture fills out.